Suchergebnisse für MTB
cycling

cycling
04. September, 20:11 Uhr

I've recently given a complete overhaul and modernization of my "dad bike" that my wife will be using and it went so well that it got me itching for another build. Since I don't currently own an MTB, I either use the "dad bike" or my road bike with 28mm Marathon tires for gravel and light off-road, so an old MTB sounds like the ideal candidate for a project bike. I started scouting my local market and was very surprised by how cheap old school full suspension MTBs go for. For reference, I'm talking about those: https://imgur.com/a/2IlkK1D They can be had for as low as 100€. I presume, because no body wants a 26 MTB anymore. So, my question is, do you guys think it would be worth getting one of those for 100€ and spending 100€ more on a used MTB groupset? My main goal would be to hit single track and begginer trails as I'm new to MTB. Also, what should I look for frame wise? What kind of issues could an old full suspension frame have that I should check before buying?

cycling
07. August, 14:35 Uhr

Was planning to get the Riverside 500 at my nearest Decathlon as my Entry Level bike but they ran out of frames my size. The only ones left for my size were the Rockrider St 120 and Triban RC100 (Drop/Flat Bar). The LBS around my area sells more on MTBs than Road but also has a few Gravel that pops up her and there. So, my only other option now is to convert an MTB to a Hybrid but have no idea on how to do it. Going to see LBS nearby on what MTBs they have and make some inquiries. Apart from wheels what else would I need changing? I'll be using it for fitness and occasional commute. Hoping for your input. Ty.

cycling
29. Januar, 15:22 Uhr

Greetings all. I've been a BMXer and MTBer all my life. I recently bought a road bike so I could Zwift in the offseason and ride with my road biking father from time to time. After getting myself used to my road bike I would like to convert it to a 1x system and ditch the front mech. I guess the MTBer in me has made me very biased towards a single front ring. My question is 3 fold. 1.) In my reading online it seems the road cycling world is very against 1x unless you're doing gravel... so why? 2.) If any of you brave souls have run 1x in a road application did you hate it and turn back? 3.) What groupset did you end up running? On the MTB side I run Shimano XTR, I didn't care for SRAM but I guess I'd be willing to give a SRAM groupset a try on the road bike.

cycling
16. August, 14:50 Uhr

Basically, I do not understand why people rather a gravel bike than a normal hard tail MTB. Isn't a Gravel bike basically a road bike with MTB gears and fat tires? Wouldn't it make more sense then to take a hard tail MTB? you get the same tires, same gears with the plus of a **suspension fork.** Lock it for road, unlock for trail. Other than the looks or maybe the handlebar, I see no difference, and most important, No benefit over a Mountain Bike. PD. I have seen many videos and read comments like "with 2 or 3 sets of wheels, you have a road bike, and XC bike etc". Well, same for an MTB I guess, thick tires for trail, slick city ones for road. And with the addition of droppers, flat handlebars, they are slowly transitioning into MTBs... Let's just wait until the bring fork suspension. I really cannot see the justification for it.

cycling
08. Oktober, 20:48 Uhr

So Road Bikes are sort of a niche here, Gravel Bikes even more so. They're also priced respective to that... So a nice Gravel/Road bike from a comparably priced range from the same manufacturer costs WAY more than a MTB. I need a bike mainly for roads and a (small) bit of gravel/unpaved paths, but no serious rock/downhill drops. Sounds perfect for a Gravel but they're just not reasonably priced here. There's a lot more options for MTBs, larger price range, plus they got more mounting points for various doodads incase I want to get into Bike-touring in the future... How would you go about turning a MTB into a Gravel Bike? Preferably on the cheap. Replacing the wheels with thinner gravel set is obvious, the front suspension fork can go... Or maybe stay, they're quite comfy. Any suggestions or precautions for this train of thought?

cycling
26. März, 18:06 Uhr

Hey y'all! Looking for some input and advice on how to spend my remaining time until my race next month. I'm doing a 65 mile with 8,000 feet of vert MTB race. It's split up into about 30 miles of singletrack and 35 miles of gravel. This is my second time, having previously completed it in 2019. I'm at the end of the six week FTP Builder Zwift training plan. In that time I feel like I've made huge leaps. My weekly time on bike has been between 5-9ish hours on average. That includes the Zwift program and outdoor MTB and gravel rides as weather and time has permitted. I'm feeling good! Been knocking down some of my best PR's on segments that I set back in 2019, which has been really surprising. The structure and controlled environment of the indoor plan has been really beneficial. How should I spend the remaining 3 weeks of training time, assuming that my last week is a taper into the event? I've been thinking about hammering as much sweet spot as I can handle, with some Z2 easy rides thrown in. And at least one 40ish mile gravel grinder just to test the bike and nutrition plan. Does this sound solid? I'll also be getting out for my regular 2ish hour MTB/gravel rides as time and weather allow. I would be absolutely thrilled to beat my previous time. I was really green then, didn't follow any training structure, just kind of rode a lot and rode hard all the time. Had a good time and finished, but bonked pretty hard around mile 50. Hoping to learn from that experience and eat more carbs and more often while pacing myself better. Anything I'm missing? Any good tips or advice for me? Thanks everybody!

cycling
27. Oktober, 02:15 Uhr

For a long time, I had one sort of do-it-all lid for commuting and road and mountain - a little older, no MIPS. Last year I got a half shell for mountain biking and in 6 months smacked a tree so I’m looking to replace it. I’m tempted to buy one really nice road-ish helmet and use it for everything. I do think there is some benefit to the additional coverage of a MTB-specific helmet, but I also think people (myself included) just think road helmets look nerdy with an MTB kit. XC racers ride pretty gnarly stuff with roadie helmets, right? Anyone have a recommendation for a do-it-all helmet?

cycling
06. August, 12:33 Uhr

I'm 45. I've been a cyclist since I was about 21. from 21 until about 26, I was just a urban commuter without a car. rode about 20 miles a day for years. at 26, I got more serious about it and had multiple bikes. urban fixie, nice steel road bike with campy, cyclocross bike. started doing fun solo road centuries to breweries, stuff like that. Was a bike messenger in NYC for a few years. got an office career and stopped riding as much for a while, partly because I was so busy and partly because I got hit by a couple cars in NYC and started taking the train instead. Never got into racing. almost always ride solo. did slow group rides like critical mass back in the day, a couple mellow long untimed event rides. I always think about racing, but never do it. Moved out to Colorado and got into mountain biking about 6 years ago. I've been riding 2-5 times a week ever since (except I had a couple breaks of about 5 months due to injuries, and of course when it's snowing, in which case I ski). After all the injuries, I recently started gravel riding to do more miles with less danger. I have nice bikes. I go to the gym and lift. but I ride solo 99.9% of the time because every time I try to ride with other people, I get absolutely smoked (on the uphills. I'm decently upper midpack fast on the downhills on an MTB). I use strava just to record my rides and see mileage and calories burned, and every time I do, strava lets me know that I'm near the bottom for every segment. When I'm out on rides, I get smoked by every other rider on the uphills. people are often going literally twice as fast as I am. When I look at strava uphill segments, the top times are literally half my time. their average speed is twice my average speed. on the rare occasions that I ride with other people, it's not fun for anyone involved because I'm so slow that they spend the whole time waiting and I spend the whole time killing myself trying to keep up. so I ride all the time, very consistently, but I'm still VERY slow. FWIW, I eat healthy, lots of veggies and protein and not much processed food. plenty of water and electrolytes and good on the bike fueling. a couple of things that are probably affecting it: * i don't do long base miles rides at zone 2. I almost always ride in zone 3 or 4, sometimes the whole ride is in zone 5 (According to my garmin watch). On the MTB, most of my rides are right around 10 miles. occasionally 8 or 15. on the gravel bike, I usually ride about 35 miles. * I don't follow a training plan. I just go out and ride. a lot. * I've sort of settled in to just existing at around 195-200 lbs. I would think this was the whole problem, except that I know several guys my weight/height that just absolutely smoke me consistently. I realize I'm asking anonymous faceless randos who could be 400 lbs and stuffing their face with mcdonalds and not even own bikes, but...what's my problem here? Is it just the weight? the lack of training plan? the fact that I always ride solo? other? all of the above?

cycling
08. Juli, 06:20 Uhr

I have always been a roadie for exploring. I've been wanting to travel into the world of mtb-ing hitting jumps and descents. I'm looking for a cheap al hardtail with a 1x_ groupset that I can slowly upgrade as I go on. If I ever need to, does converting to a full sus require more than a new frame and shocks? Also, would 27.5 or 29 be better? (or what are the differences in performance)

cycling
07. Juli, 11:31 Uhr

I took an older (early 2000s) Superior MTB with no suspension, it is probably more like a trekking bike or something like that. It had stock 50mm tyres on a wheel that has 21mm wide base (idk how you call it in English) and wanted to replace it for some slicker and more roadie like ones since the frame is quite light and overall feels like it would be a good fit for thinner tyres. I took 30mm B-Twin from Decathlon that were marketed as "road tyres for MTBs". We were not sure if it's gonna fit but we bought also new tubes (1,2" - 1,5") and tried it and everything seemed to fit. The tyres said minimum pressure is 6 bar and max 8. At around 3 it already felt pretty hard but I thought that they probably know why it's written there so I went for that 6-7 bars. Rode it to gym. Everything seemed fine but then, staff from the gym came to me that my rear tyre out of nowhere went flat (that loud explosion like sound). It was parked and no one touched it. What did I do wrong? I'm not an experienced tyre and tube changer, I got help from my father who did the front tyre but the rear one was only me replacing it. Maybe I did something wrong but I did the process as it should be done (I believe), I checked if the tube is nice in place under the tyre, inflated a bit and did this bumping to distribute the tube better, inflated to 6,5 bar. At this point I'm scared to try again. I'm upset since I managed to fix the front part of the groupset by myself and wanted to make the bike better and upgrade a bit. Do you have any guidelines on how to know maximum/minimum width of a tyre to fit a specific wheel? Why the sudden puncture? Maybe it was only because I replaced the rear one (the one that got flat) by myself, while the front did my father.

cycling
22. Juni, 15:20 Uhr

I feel like I am missing a ton of data by not having a power meter. I primarily MTB as that is what is closest to me. However, power meters for mtbs seem crazy expensive and I do not ride clipless. I have truvativ cranks with a dub BB. It seems like it would be $1000+ for a power meter. Is power meter data even useful while mountain biking?

cycling
15. November, 19:38 Uhr

So I’m in the U.K., I commute to and from work 4 miles each way, and I’m about to get another shot at cycle to work, the amount will be circa £1000, now I don’t know whether my mind is overthinking this, but the change to drop bars is playing on my mind. But I would love to have the extra speed that comes with say a 50T by 11T range would provide for example over my current 32 1X 10 groupset currently does, and obviously mtbs don’t really lend well to road speed, current speed is 30mph at max cadence my legs can push. I’m just looking really for advice on the transition from mtb position to gravel, I’m ruling out full road as where I live doesn’t really cater too well for road bikes, at least say for when summer rolls around and I take more towpath routes, and light gravel routes. During the summer I tend to go on long rides (at least for me 40 miles +). Just want some advice from people who made the change really.

cycling
22. Oktober, 12:28 Uhr

Just curious: I’ve lost a couple of decent Strava KOMs recently on rough surfaced roads to riders on MTBs. Is there any advantage to being on MTB on these type of surface? One is a very rutted, stony, potholey track (about 3% uphill gradient), that I did on a cross bike with 38mm knobblies on 700c wheels. Could feel myself bouncing around a fair bit. The other was a scruffy tarmac road, (11%-ish uphill) which I rode on a lightweight road bike. The riders who beat me are strong (I know them) but just wondering if there is any advantage in these circumstances of suspension/softer tyres/650b wheels?

cycling
05. September, 09:53 Uhr

Is it working and worth the buy? Most tubless plugs pictures/tutorials I've seen is alway about fat MTB/Gravel tires 38"+, but I have not seen plug usage on thiner road bike tires, say less than 30/32. does it work well or do you damage the tire when trying to insert the plug?

cycling
11. Dezember, 01:16 Uhr

I have a trek Marlin 6 size L year 2022, I have only modified the handlebars, stem and pedals, a trek 4300 size 19 year 2009 modified with the same as the previous one plus mechanical disc brakes and Chinese air fork, and thirdly a Marlin 5 size 17 approx from 2015-2016 which I rescued to mainly improve the wheels and the frame, the rest I prefer to buy new or use parts that I already have. The issue is that I bought the last one before the Marlin 6 that I currently use more, I use the 4300 sometimes or I leave it for a friend who visits me, the Marlin 5 was stored then and I was thinking of transforming it into gravel but I don't know If it will be worth it mainly for the size since my size is "XL" I literally measure 1.90 meters. what dou you recommend?

cycling
25. Juli, 09:32 Uhr

Hi everyone! So after years of road cycling I decided to get myself a 29er hardtail. It was a combination of crazy drivers on roads (being cuddleled by 2 SUVs already)and being tired of the sport as it is.. I feel as fast and efficient as I can possible be and distance doesnt excite me anymore.. So I came here to ask which kind of skills I can bring from road cycling to the trails and what I should forget? I did couple of days out with other inexperienced friend of mine and I just felt really clumsy and slow (Funny enough I was ok climbing)Any recommendations are welcome!

cycling
12. März, 15:08 Uhr

I feel safer with the mountain lions and bears, but biggest fear is accidentally meeting a momma with her cubs.

cycling
09. Dezember, 20:19 Uhr

Hello there Tl;Dr: I found a frame that I loved, but it is a top swing, I cant find any FD that supports that crankset for top swing I'm building a custom bike. And my city has a lot of hills, so I decided to run a 53/39 up front with a 9s 11-40 on the rear, good-ish reduction and plenty of speed on the downslopes. But I can find an FD that works, so any ideas or indications?

cycling
04. März, 20:27 Uhr

I’m very aware this sounds like a very silly question but is at an absolute MUST without it will it damage the Garmin?

cycling
22. Juni, 22:18 Uhr

I started road cycling (on a gravel bike) in 2021 and absolutely love it. Getting a true racing road bike later this year. But now MTB is sort of appealing to me. I'm very much an outdoors guy, and I live in a very good MTB cycling area, plus I mountain biked some as a kid so I have some nostalgia for it (still have my old GT bike). I avoided returning to MTB because at my age (40), a top priority for me in any athletic endeavor is to avoid injury. MTB just seems like an injury waiting to happen. If I did MTB, I wouldn't do anything aggressive, but trails are what they are and things can happen. On the road, it doesn't feel particularly dangerous to me since I typically ride roads that are far away from major traffic. I know road is uniquely dangerous b/c all it takes is some car to hit you, but for the most part I think I'm able to ride protectively and safely, and I never take risks on descents and such. Thing is, on the road, there are definitely times you can safely go fast, and it's pretty thrilling (ex: I love finding a long flat or false flat and just gunning it). My sense is that, on MTB, if you want to have a thrill, you'll have to ride somewhat aggressively, and I assume a lot of the thrill comes on downhills, which seem a bit more risky.

cycling
12. Juni, 22:54 Uhr

So, I've been a cycling enthusiast for years, rode 4 different road bikes (3 alu, 1 carbon) and 3 different mountain bikes (1 16 kg, steel frame with 2 suspensions, the other 2 are alu frame, cross country bikes, 12cm front suspension, around 13-14 kg) but never owned a power meter. For me it was always simple, road bikes have been much more faster, never needed to compare how much the difference between them. But the pace difference between my current bikes is confusing me as it is smaller than I am used to. Right now I have a carbon road bike with ultegra set, 23mm michelin tyres, 105 psi, and a cross country hardtail mtb with schwalbe tough tom tyres. The saddle height and position is almost the same on both bikes. On the mtb I could be 0.5 to 1cm more forward. Road bike has spd pedals, mtb has flat pedals. The road bike costs almost twice as much as the mtb. But their paces are very SIMILAR. On the mtb I easily sustain 28-30 kmh with zone 2 heart rate and with road bike it is only 30-32 kmh, on the same conditions which are flat, tarmac roads with no wind. I am trying to understand why they are so close to each other in terms of pace compared to the difference between my older road mtb pairs. The road bike seems like it has no issues, it is clean, has a new chain, wheels freely rotate, only issue I can find is that the rear wheel makes me feel a little bit of vibration on the frame when I hold the frame in my hands while the wheel rotates, I think it is a very minor thing. So, people who own similar bikes with powermeters, how is your experience? How much pace difference you have on the same conditions with, say, 150 watts? Are road bikes not that much faster actually, or do I have a problem with my road bike?

cycling
28. Juni, 03:06 Uhr

I primarily use my bike (Raleigh Detour 2) for commuting to work. It's under six miles and about 35ish minutes each way. I'm also starting to ride my bike more for grocery trips and stuff. When I got my bike three years ago, I just grabbed the first helmet on the shelf without any thought. I'm ready to replace my helmet, and one thing I like about it is that it has a little visor that helps keep the sun out of my eyes when riding home into the sunset (there's a stretch that has me riding directly into the sun). It seems like most people just recommend sunglasses...but I wear prescription glasses. Prescription sunglasses are an option, but I tried on this helmet at REI, and I really love the style and fit: https://www.rei.com/product/216583/smith-engage-2-mips-bike-helmet?color=MATTE%20POPPY%2FTERRA I was going to buy it, then thought I should read some reviews, and that's when I discovered this is a MTB helmet and that road helmets are designed for the road in a way MTB helmets are not. It never occurred to me that they would be two different things. Is it really that big of a deal? From what I can see when comparing the below road helmet (a similar style Smith brand), the biggest difference visually is that the back of my head would have some extra protection. That can't be a bad thing, can it? The MTB is also only an ounce heavier. https://www.rei.com/product/216588/smith-persist-2-mips-bike-helmet?color=POPPY%2FTERRA Prescription sunglasses ARE an option, but I'd prefer not to pay an extra $100 on top of a new helmet if it can be avoided. I wear transition lenses, but the bright California sun really gets into my eyes on my ride home without my visor to help. For reference, I'm pretty sure this is my current helmet: https://playtristore.com/products/aerius-v19-sport-cycling-helmet-black-grey?variant=35657906389154&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAjwkeqkBhAnEiwA5U-uM2d4WuGXojv4IDz7t0p4cVT71PLCbbwMm0GVDdDUDJygRpuDvtp0KhoCuzAQAvD_BwE Should I get the road helmet and splurge on the sunglasses (which may or may not find some use outside of cycling as I also try to have a more active lifestyle), or should I get the MTB helmet which fit perfectly and has that sun blocking visor I've grown accustomed to? One article I read said MTB helmets are good if you need a versatile helmet for on and off road but that road bike helmets are generally a better bet. My use will be strictly commuting and store trips, and probably no rides that are much longer than an hour. And every comment regarding the visor is always "wear sunglasses" which is gonna be an extra $100 from Zenni for me.

cycling
04. Juni, 19:53 Uhr

I really got into mtb'ing first. I biked all the time with friends when I lived in FL. I moved several years ago and slowly have turned into more of a gravel/road biker. I live in NC so there is fantastic opportunity to mtb but I just haven't. One downside is some seasons it's just much harder to get out. Also the rain stays longer and shuts down trails all the time. Back home in FL I could bike basically every day all year. I only road my mtb maybe 2 times last year. It's $1k collecting dust. While I know if I really wanted to I'd get out way more, I just don't. Mtb is big where I live but I guess the convenience of road/gravel is winning out for me. My gf sort of pushed back on the idea of selling. Since I would be happy to have it the few times I took it out. But even when I get the urge I'm so out of practice. Last year I whiped out hard with a buddy in Knoxville. I think I may just sell it. I live in an apartment and have limited space. But I also know everything is just going up and if I decide later I want mtb I'll be shelling out more cash then before. Truth is I'm focusing on gravel/road. Trying to work on my endurance and using a trainer on busy days. Oblivious a stranger can't tell me what is right for me, but any feedback?

cycling
14. Mai, 03:41 Uhr

I am in UK at the moment and in less than 2 weeks I was planning to start my first ever tour. I had a simple alloy mtb bike, bags, ready and all prepared to go but due to an accident( stationed car that suddenly reversed without checking, hitting me) I am on the lookout for a proper touring bike. Initially, I thought about spending £1200 max on a bike, but the more I think, I really don't want to spend all these money and fear have it stolen when I am in a shop or away from an hostel, etc and anyway, I will thrash it. After much researching I have a basic idea what I want in a touring bike. I kept looking for a Surly Mtb. I checked every second hand marketplace for weeks to find a decent one, in my size, at a good price. No luck yet. Anyway, I just came across of a new discounted triple butted steel MTB hardtail with a 130mm lockable suspension fork, sram 12 speeds, hydraulic disk brakes and a 29"x2.8" wheel set. Flat bar and at a Really good price. Everything I want! So I am thinking, why not? It is steel. The fork is lockable, Lots of speeds and thick tires. So it is kinda a touring bike, right? Well, except it doesn't have rack eyelets. And my setup is fully based on panniers and a rack at this point. No way to turn back from this. But.. I think I can overcome this by using some steel clamps around the frame where I can install the rack. Not sure what solutions are out there, but if you know any, let me know please. I would appreciate your thoughts on this. I was planning to start with a cheap mtb, but if am spending these money I don't want to have any regrets. I keep thinking if riding a "proper" touring bike would be different than riding a MTB. I will be riding on 50-50 mix. Road/off-road. If I get this bike, than I can start my tour on time, without missing 2 weeks of testing bike and gear. If not, I have to keep looking for a good bike, but delay the start of the tour, Thank you.

cycling
26. Mai, 09:21 Uhr

I'm thinking about switching away from speed play to Shimano SPD pedals as I swap between my mountain bike and road bike often mainly just for variety and occasionally, I like to have a more comfortable and stable ride than my road bike so it would be nice to have just one set of pedals and shoes. I think I have narrowed down my choice of shoes to either the XC 702 or RX8 the 702 seem to be more designed for XC, whereas the RX8 seem to be aimed at use primarily on roads and smoother trails. My question is there is a €45 difference between the 702 and RX8 do you think the RX8 are worth the higher price. Although I do like the 702 in the colour red. https://mtb.shimano.com/gear/footwear/sh-xc702 https://gravel.shimano.com/gear/footwear/sh-rx801

cycling
16. September, 11:56 Uhr

I recently posted about swapping out my speedplays on my aero bike and getting a set of mtb pedals for both my road and mtb. I mainly do long flat routes between 60 and 80km on the road, occasionally a longer epic if weather is good. On the mtb I just hit the local trails e.g. sherwood forest pines, the red trail. I'm looking for a shoe I could use for both, any advice? Thinking along the lines of 510 kestrel boa or scott mtb Comp boa. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance!

cycling
01. August, 13:18 Uhr

I moved to a city where I regularly commute with a 15yo trekking bike. I just recently used my new 29" MTB on the same commute and realized that I am constantly 20% faster. I also counter-checked it, going back I am 20% slower. Now I really wonder why that could be and how I should tune my trekking bike? So both are 29" and freshly serviced, new chain. Pressure is 4-5 bar on the trekking and bit under 3 bar on the MTB. The MTB is a bit lighter, but not that much that this could be the only cause. About 4kg I would estimate. The street tyres on the trekking bike should be faster than the MTB due to less resistance already. Gear box is different, but I use what feels the same, so I am as exhausted on both. So what else could it be??

cycling
15. Juli, 10:10 Uhr

Hi guys! Normally I would never post this, but since im sorta outta option I figured id give it a try. Ive been looking to buy a nice MTB for simple forest, beach and city/commute rides. Except, where I live, there are very little bike shops. Usually id never buy a bike online, but since im out of options in my hometown I thought id give it a try. So I went online, and saw this killer deal on a Bulls Pulsar MTB. Except, im a little weary on choosing the right frame size. The bike has 27" wheels, and it comes in frame sizes 46/51/56 cm (centimetres). There is a online size comparison chart on the site I would like to buy it from, and it says I should go for the 51cm. That would fit my height (1.84 cm). My road bike, however, is 58 cm. Im aware of the differences in geometry with road and mtb bikes but should the difference be this big? I could return it, if it doesn't fit, but I don't want to go through all that hassle really since its not a small package. Is there anyone familiar with mtb bikes or maybe even this Bulls Pulsar and would like to share recommendations or purchase advice? Thanks in advance! ​ ​

cycling
25. April, 03:58 Uhr

Ok, so I'm not a hipster lol. I used to ride for recreation back in the day but a friend of mine rides her bicycle to work every day (we are neighbors and co-workers) and I decided to give it a try. I had my old 26" MTB repaired and it's doing great but it's small for me. I decided I'm buying another MTB which is a 29 hardtail with crow livery. Now, crows are my favorite animal so I apologize if I chose my bike based on its stickers lol It's a great frame according to reviews and will get upgraded down the line. Now, to the fixie. I had another 26 MTB rotting away and decided to turn it into a fixie with a flip flop because the rear derailleur exploded once and then it was replaced with a new one just to be bent beyond repair. At that point it was abandoned. This way it's gonna get used and it's going to be fun to have a MTB with skinny slick tires and single gear. It's a 44/18 ratio. It's at the shop as we speak. I guess all I'm saying is this is a wonderful way of transportation so far and a slippery slope. I'm spending quite some money but it's super fun. In the near future I'll do my own work hopefully but I wasn't feeling like buying tools this month.

cycling
30. Januar, 21:37 Uhr

I ride road, gravel, and MTB fairly regularly. I usually do 100-200 miles per week, so a fairly avid cyclist. My heart rate is always super high when I ride MTB. Like, waaay higher than when I ride my road bike. It’s to the point that the limiting factor stopping me from riding MTB more often, or more miles in a day is that my heart rate hangs out at the max for so long that I get fatigued. My legs aren’t tired. It’s my heart. For reference, I live in Florida. So this isn’t like downhill stuff. It’s a lot of short punchy climbs and descents. 20 feet up, 20 feet down, repeat. On my road bike, it’s usually the opposite. My heart rate is under good control, but the limiting factor in the end will be that my legs get tired on a very long ride. Does anyone else notice this for themselves or know how I could get my heart rate under better control on the mountain bike? I can’t tell if it’s technique related, or fitness related. Edit: some really good, thoughtful responses here. I have some good ideas for how to move forward and manage my efforts. And I’ll probably become a stronger road rider if I keep working on my MTB fitness as well.

cycling
08. Dezember, 20:03 Uhr

Hello All, ​ After several months, I've decided to give up on Spin bike path vs Indoor trainer. I had a NordicTrack S22I which I really liked, but the ergonomics of it vs my MTB are just not even close. I have never ever had knee pain on a bike, and on this indoor trainer I could not get rid of it. When on my MTB no issues. So I recently ordered an Elite Suite indoor Trainer and hope to get a rocker plate soon also and want to connect my MTB to it. My MTB is a bit older and lower end hardtail. it has a 8 speed Shimano cassette 11-34. and Tourney TX800 rear derailleur. Would I have any any problems using a CS-HG31-8 ? it has the exact same tooth count on all the gears it appears, as well as the same brand and amount of speeds. however it does seem intended for "Road" use ? Would I encounter issues here? Also is there any way to sync just regular rides to strava if not using Rouvy or zwift? iFit was great in that it always syncs up rides to my strava Any help is appreciated!

cycling
08. September, 05:29 Uhr

I used to love road biking but now am so down to hoon a mtb on trails. I did stop biking to use drugs and then I got clean. I’m 5’10” 223lb now after the big weight gain. I’m planning to get my endurance back by biking around my hilly city on the road bike. Would the work rate on MTB around the same city hill streets/route beat the effort from the road bike? I do like going fast too lol. My end goal is to get a mtb and ride trails but I feel like I need to be more fit as when I tripped out the door when I was 250lbs and that was so painful than compared to when I was 170.

cycling
15. August, 18:02 Uhr

So I been trying to find a pair of road bike shoes that fit me unfortunately shoes have always been hard for me because I have super flat feet. Every road bike shoe I tried on at the store was insanely uncomfortable. That's when I was told I should try MTB shoes for my road bike since I have MTB flat pedals already installed on mine. I really enjoy the feel of MTB shoes they give me more support and are stiff enough. Plus they support my ankles a bit better. The other day some dude on another road bike threw a water bottle at me and told me I looked stupid wearing mountain bike shoes on a road bike which made me feel kinda insecure. Is it really that big of a deal? Like I don't race or anything I do more endurance related biking for exercise purposes. I used to be a runner where I ran 80 miles a week but as I got older my knees can't take the pounding anymore so I turned to road biking.

cycling
08. Juli, 09:16 Uhr

I've been committed to getting back on a bike and lose weight as it's gotten out of control ever since I took a hiatus from biking in favor of school and work. Now that I've been biking regularly for a month and switching back between MTB and Road biking, I'm curious to see what folks think is more beneficial for weight loss. From the exercise standpoint: MTB, my legs definitely feel more exhausted because I'm climbing with an Enduro mtb. Overall though, I'm doing less mileage (around 6-8mi), average speed being 6mi/h, with a huge part of it gained on the uphill, but have more climbing with around 1k ft. Strava says I can burn around 700-1300 calories on these rides. Road bike, I feel to some extent I'm getting a better work out in terms of heart rate with much less strain. Doing around 15miles, averaging 14mi/hr, but significantly less climbing of around 200ft. Strava says I only burn about 100-600 calories on these rides. I know that Strava is using an estimate to calculate calories burned but would love to get some real hand experience on weight loss between the two bikes. Edit: In regards to dieting, I have been tracking my calorie intake on paper. I'm definitely on a deficit with calories in being at around 1200-1500. This question is more suited towards seeing how I can be more effective in weight loss and if one bike is better for doing so.

cycling
13. Juni, 02:00 Uhr

Hey fellow cyclists, I recently acquired an MTB, and as a beginner, I'm facing some technical issues that have left me scratching my head. I hope this community can lend me a hand and point me in the right direction. Firstly, I wanted to clean the accumulated grease and oil off my bike, thinking it would be a straightforward task. However, I ended up dismantling all the parts in my attempt to clean them properly. Now, I'm left with a heap of confusion as I struggle to put everything back together correctly. One particular issue that has me concerned is the freewheel. After reassembling everything, I've noticed that the freewheel is moving jiggly, which is definitely not normal. It seems like there are other problems with my bike as well, but as a beginner, I'm finding it difficult to pinpoint the exact issues and how to fix them. This brings me to my main request: Does anyone know of a free repair manual or online resource that could guide me through the process of fixing my MTB? I'd greatly appreciate any recommendations, especially those geared towards beginners like myself. A comprehensive step-by-step guide or tutorial video would be a lifesaver! Additionally, if any experienced cyclists could offer me some general tips or advice on how to troubleshoot common issues or maintain my bike properly, I would be forever grateful. I'm eager to learn and become more self-sufficient when it comes to maintaining my MTB. Thank you all in advance for your support and guidance. I'm really looking forward to being an active member of this cycling community and enjoying many exciting rides in the future! Ride on.

cycling
05. Juni, 04:35 Uhr

I am super stoked! Just bought a Trek Hardtail Marlin 6 MTB and can’t wait to use it. This is my first MTB and it was recommended to me Trek is a great brand. Mostly gonna use the bike, at the beginning, for gravel riding and eventually move to trail riding. Any tips to starting out? I invested into MTB and wanna stick with it.

cycling
27. April, 19:50 Uhr

Have been riding MTB for a while and would like to experiment more and more road cycling. Doing that on my MTB is rough sometimes! What about starting with this Orbea? Price is close to 1k USD/1k EUR. It’s the “old” 2022 model Anything I should be aware of? Coming from Mtb things are definitely different (in terms of parts etc). Cheers! CUADRO Orbea Avant Hydro disc hydroformed triple butted aluminium HS 1 5" ICR BB 68 mm – BSC English Thru Axle 12x142 mm rear thread M12x2 P1 Internal Cable Routing SP 27 2 mm mmS system. HORQUILLA Orbea carbon fork 2021 aluminum steerer 1-1/8" head tube AMORTIGUADOR MANDOS DE CAMBIO Shimano Tiagra ST-4 700 CAMBIO TRASERO Shimano Tiagra 4 700 GS DESVIADOR DELANTERO CASETTE Sun Race CSMS1 11-34t 10-Speed BIELAS FSA Omega Megaexo 34x50t CADENA KMC X10 RUEDAS Orbea wheel: Corsa with 12 mm E-Thru hubset Shimano RS470 28H NEUMÁTICOS Vittoria Zafiro V Rigid bead 700x28c MANILLAR OC1 Road riser 15 mm reach 70 mm drop 125 mm POTENCIA OC1 31.8 mm interface -6º FRENOS Tektro MD-C550 Mechanical Disc TIJA Alloy 27.2 Offset 20 SILLÍN Fizik Aliante R5